Malawi

Lake Malawi is Africa’s third largest and second deepest lake. Measuring just short of 600km north to south and 80km wide in places, it dominates the eastern side of Malawi and constitutes roughly 20% of its surface area.

For the people of Malawi, the lake is an integral part of their cultural heritage and vast trove of natural resources – with fish species such as chambo forming the primary protein source of the nearly 20 000 people that live on the lakeshore and beyond.

On the surface a number of islands pepper the lake, separated from the mainland by alternating bands of sandy flats and deep water. Palm fringed beaches and soaring mountains surround the warm crystal clear waters of Lake Malawi. Picturesque fishing villages dot the shoreline, their cultures unchanged for thousands of years.

On the shores miombo woodland and baobabs occur, and mammals such as baboon, vervet monkey, dassies and hippo are most commonly sighted. Bird life is abundant, with over 100 bird species – particularly waterbirds. Lake Malawi is dominated by the ubiquitous African Fish-Eagles, but enthusiasts will be rewarded with sightings of the shyer and less common forest birds that inhabit the bush, such as the north-eastern hypoxanthus variety of Sombre Greenbul. Other species seen include African Harrier-Hawk, Trumpeter Hornbill, White-breasted Cormorant, Water Thick-Knee, African Paradise-Flycatcher and a variety of herons, weavers, doves and starlings.

Beneath its waters a wide range of underwater habitats, including sandy, weedy, rock-sand interface and reed beds, harbour an abundant wealth and diversity of mostly endemic aquatic life. Lake Malawi supports over 2000 species of freshwater – a greater variety than any other lake on Earth, more than all of Europe and North America combined. The majority of these are colourful fish called cichlids (locally named mbuna) of which Lake Malawi contains more than 400 types, or 30% of all known species. Much of this astounding underwater diversity is protected within the Lake Malawi National Park at Cape Maclear in the south, the first in the world set aside for the protection of freshwater fish and a World Heritage Site.

Majete is one of the outstanding success stories of African conservation. Granted protected status in 1955, it became the subject of extensive poaching in the 1980s and 1990s. But a concerted joint effort since 2003 by the African Parks Network and the Malawi government – including the reintroduction of endangered species – has turned it into a model of sustainable development and biodiversity.
Located in the south of Malawi close to the city of Blantyre, Majete is an area of 70.000 hectares, part of Africa’s Great Rift Valley. The reserve is made up of mature miombo woodlands and granite topped hills that contrast with picturesque river valleys and lush riverine forest.

For connoisseurs of wildlife many exciting encounters lie in store, with the chance to view many species including black rhino, elephant, buffalo, eland, kudu, sable, suni, klipspringer, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest and zebra.

Restoring the reserve to its former beauty is not merely an exercise in attracting tourists. The stated aim is to benefit the people of Malawi and, in particular, the local communities in Majete. Poachers will, literally, turn gamekeeper. The growth of tourism will be strictly controlled, making the experience for visitors to Mkulumadzi all the more special.

Before the agreement between African Parks and the Malawi government in 2003, Majete was in a sorry state. Although the flora was intact, years of under-investment and rampant poaching had emptied the park of most of its large mammals. The rejuvenation of the reserve began with law enforcement. Scouts received new equipment and training, and a 160km electrified fence was erected around the perimeter to protect local villages from marauding elephant, buffalo and hippo. Elephants in the reserve were captured, darted and collared, and a new GPS mapping and monitoring system allows scouts to record each patrol on a handheld device, noting vital information such as wildlife sightings, water sources and illegal activities.

The reintroduction of more than 3,000 animals from other areas of Malawi and neighbouring countries began in 2003 and included black rhino, elephant, buffalo, eland, kudu, zebra, warthog, sable, waterbuck, impala and Lichtenstein’s hartebeest. In 2006, a total of 70 elephants were imported from Liwonde National Park. Two years later their numbers had grown to 82, and further introductions increased the elephant population to 144.

The black rhino – listed by CITES as a critically endangered species – was introduced at about the same time, with scouts monitoring their progress on a daily basis. In July 2008 the first rhino calf was born and further successful births have brought the total number to nine, second in Malawi only to Liwonde National Park.

Liwonde was proclaimed as a National Park in 1973 is considered the most prolific wildlife area in Malawi, despite its size – only 548km2.

This is largely because the Shire River – the country’s largest river and Lake Malawi’sonly outlet – forms the western boundary of the park. Nearly a kilometre wide in places, with floodplains extending to three times that width in the south, the Shire River is a magnet for wildlife.

Named after Chief Liwonde who had championed its protection, the Liwonde National Park harbours very diverse landscapes. Relatively dry mopane woodlands cover the eastern half of the Park where they are interspersed with unworldly candelabra trees, while patches of miombo woodland occur on the limited hill slopes in the south and east. Palm savannah and numerous baobabs abut the extensive floodplains of the Shire River where dense riverine vegetation adds a tropical feel to the habitat.

Liwonde National Park is home to the largest remaining elephant population in Malawi and one of only two breeding nuclei of black rhino reside here. Liwonde National Park also boasts large numbers of impala, reedbuck, waterbuck, warthog and the majestic sable – which is rare anywhere else in Africa today.

Kudu and impala, together with sable herds, haunt the woodlands beyond the floodplain, while yellow baboon entertain with their social antics.

Buffalo, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, zebra, roan and eland were historically hunted to extinction in the area, but have since been introduced into what is known as The Sanctuary – a substantial 4 000 ha fenced area within Liwonde National Park that serves as a reservoir for rare species. It is here that Liwonde’s black rhino find refuge too. A dense population of hippo can be found in the Shire River and monstrous Nile crocodile are found lazing on the sandbanks.

The birdlife here is prolific – probably the best year-round birding in Southern Africa. Over 300 of the country’s 650 bird species occur in the Liwonde National Park, with gems such as Böhm’s Bee-eater, African Skimmer, Palmnut Vulture, White-backed Night-heron and Dickinson’s Kestrel often sighted. Others such as Livingstone’s Flycatcher, Pel’s Fishing-owl and Spur-winged Lapwing can also be found in the riverine strip. Liwonde National Park is home to the only population of Lillian’s Lovebird in Malawi and also plays host to the rare Brown-breasted Barbet.